(Photo by Jake Williams)
We’re so lucky in Champaign-Urbana to have such great food and drink options. Here at Chambana Eats, the goal is to uplift the entire industry. You won’t find a lot of restaurant criticism here, but we will gush when we need to gush.
And good golly, with San Maru, we need to gush.
In an unassuming location in the Crossing, tucked away on Duncan and Windsor, San Maru is serving some of the best tasting food I’ve had yet in Champaign-Urbana.
The focus is almost exclusively on the food — the interior of the restaurant is simple, with an order counter and about a dozen tables. While we were there, so many people came to pickup takeout (which appears to be the move), and freezers in the back of the restaurant contained to-go frozen versions of some of their classics.
Despite the takeout-friendly environment, the staff at San Maru was tops. They were prompt with checking on if we needed anything, all while fielding calls, giving out takeout orders and servicing other tables.
(Photo by Jake Williams)
To start, I ordered the Maxim Mocha Gold Mixed Coffee iced — a pre-mixed Korean coffee with heavy emphasis on the sweet. My partner ordered the Shi-ke, a traditional Korean rice punch made from cooked-rice, sugar, malt and ginger.
(Photo by Jake Williams)
The Shi-ke was complex and texturally satisfying. I immediately had drink envy.
For our appetizer, we ordered the Nokdu Bin-Dea-Dduk, a crispy mung-bean pancake made with bean sprouts, kimchi, onion and scallion. The Nokdu Bin-Dea-Dduk was the first flavor explosion of the meal, but certainly not the last.
It was hot — searing hot — with delightful griddle flavor balanced by the acidity of the kimchi and the freshness of the rest of the vegetables.
(Photo by Jake Williams)
This pancake is a masterclass in the Maillard reaction, perfectly cooked right before burnt. Emphasis on perfect.
For entrees, we went with the Galbi-Tang (my partner’s brilliant order) and the BuDae Jigae. Both dishes were exceptional, but the real standout was the Galbi-Tang.
(Photo by Jake Williams)
Clear beef soup with rib meat, radish, scallions and mushrooms, this dish came piping hot and delivered a flavor like I’ve never tasted. The broth was so rich, and among the most savory things I’ve ever consumed.
San Maru's Galbi-Tang is an example of how much finesse and complexity can be in simplicity. Contradiction aside, I've thought about this dish several times weekly since eating it.
It’s that good.
Where simplicity reigned supreme for the Galbi-Tang, complexity and umami won the day for my order of BuDae Jigae. I ordered it because when I read it on the menu, I couldn’t quite picture how it would taste. I certainly wasn’t disappointed.
(Photo by Jake Williams)
Kimchi stew with spam, hot dogs and tofu, along with ramen noodles and rice cakes provided a hearty, fun and exciting dish. I loved the saltiness that the spam and hot dogs brought and how the tofu absorbed such a flavorful broth.
Despite both incredible dishes and the Nokdu Bin-Dea-Dduk, the accompanying banchan was almost just as impressive. With daikon kimchi, potatoes, bean sprouts and pickled radish, I was shocked at how much those flavors stood out on their own.
Anytime I’m craving fries or something potato-y and indulgent, I would always reach for these potatoes over them. The kimchi was balanced and lit up the palette with every bite.
If I had to pick just one word to describe San Maru…well I couldn’t.
The first word that comes to mind is overwhelming, but the negative connotation gives the wrong impression. You should go to San Maru clear-eyed and ready for every bite to light up your brain.
You will walk away feeling satiated and full, but already dreaming about going back.
In a local food scene dominated by incredible cooking, San Maru stands as a beacon, not just in West Champaign but in our whole community.
It’s a beacon of joy, of great flavor, and an example of what is just so exciting about eating and drinking in Champaign-Urbana: unassuming, perfectly-finessed and community-forward.
Go here now. Seriously.
Jake Williams is a journalist, editor and publisher, as well as the CEO of the Illini Media Company.